Marmaris - 7 days Southwest - North West

Marmaris is one of the world's greatest sailingcentres. The only problem is that when you reach the head of the almostland-locked natural harbour that is the Bay of Marmaris, you have todecide whether to sail Southwest-Northwest towards Borzburun and Bodrum,or Southeast-Northeast towards Gocek, Fethiye, Gemiler, Kalkan, and Kas.In a single week there is no way that you can do justice to the area.This is the best that we can suggest! The itinerary is in order as youleave Marmaris. Kumlu Buku is still within Marmaris Bay. Two pairs ofanchorages are very close together. Near to Marmaris, Ciftlik andGerbekse and within a mile of each other, and Serce and Kale Koy withina couple of miles of each other. We have therefore set out the itineraryas though it were a one-way trip.



 

Day 1: Marmaris

Marmaris is at the head of a marvellous land-locked bay. It is a major resort town with countless restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. To eat out, we particularly recommend Neighbours, which is very inexpensive, and Caria. Both are just over the bridge as you leave the marina for Marmaris Town. Also worth a visit is La Campana, on the first floor of the building on the left just as you are leaving the marina. Pineapple is a pleasant spot too, particularly for a lazy lunch. Steer clear of their pizza though. The supermarket in the Marina is no dearer than other shops although the range of goods on offer is not that great. There are two provision stores just over the bridge on leaving the marina, both of which deliver to your yacht at the marina without charge. (You hitch a ride on the back of their scooter!) The best chandlery is also just over the bridge on the right. You can also somethimes buy fresh fish there too, but that is pretty hit and miss!

Marmaris
Marmaris

 

Day 2: Ciftlik

This is a very convenient first stop if you are travelling from Marmaris towards Bodrum. The bay is very well protected and has numerous jetties and restaurants on shore. Limited provisions are also available, and if you are lucky you may be able to buy fresh fish straight from the fishermen. There is a market here that targets the residents of the large hotel complex. We have regularly experienced particularly strong winds on the passage from Marmaris to here and the neighbouring anchorage at Gerbeske, so be watchful!

Ciftlik
Ciftlik

 

Day 3: Bozu Kale

Bozukale is 15nm for Marmaris. The Citadel at the entrance is a truly magnificent sight. The inlet is much larger than nearby Serce, and has an even greater collection of beach restaurants, none of which we have so far tried. We have often anchored most of the way down the port side of the bay in a small cove, that used to have yet another restaurant, but now abandoned. The view is fantastic with the little beach,the Citadel, and the byzantine ruins all in sight, backed by the mountains - definitely one of our favourites. Although the bay seems very sheltered, in a southerly gale a surprising amount of swell manages to work its way in, and we have also spent some sleepless nights here. It is also an enchanting place to stay for a cuople of days, if time permits. There are some interesting walks on the shore and in the hills, meandering among the byzantine ruins or further inland in the valley at the end of the bay.

Bozu
Kale
Bozu Kale

 

Day 4: Kumlu Buku

Kumlu Buku is a couple of hours from Marmaris marina. The village there has nothing much to recommend it, and there are no shops. However,the restaurant there has a pontoon with light and water. There are lazy lines to which you can tie up. The restaurant here is very nice,the food is very good, but pricey by local standards. If however you use their facilities, for which they do not charge, it seems only fair to eat there. There is much to be said for using it as your last port of call on the way home. You can have a really good last night,have a swim, and make your way gently back to Marmaris. Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the southern side of the bay. On the northern side, above the water, stands the ancient Rhodian city of Amos. Loryma, at the tip of the Bozburun Peninsula, where the ruins of the ancient harbor and castle remain, can only be reached by boat. Natural quiet bays and scattered islands punctuate the northern shore of the peninsula, ideal for those who want to get away from it all.

Bozborun
Bozborun

Day 5: Serce

Serce is 13nm from Gerbekse or Ciftlik. It is a fairly large intlet with restaurants at either end of it, both which offer moorings. The man in the row boat also usually takes your stern-line and seures it for you. The expectation is of course that you will eat at their restaurant. We did not eat well at Memos Farm, and it was quite expensive, but that may have been an off day. There are fishing boats based here, and the range of fish offered was much greater than usual. Serce has managed to retain much of its wild charm, aided by the small fleet of inshore fishing boats, and the sight of the womenfolk gathering wild sage on the hillsides. Yacht tourism may provide much of the cash income, but old traditional Turkey is very visible too.

Day 6: Bozborun

Ensconced among the green mountains of the Datca Peninsula, Bozburun is a charming little habour at the end of some wonderful sheltered bays. It is totally sheltered by the hills and mountains behind it. While it is possible to swim, there is no official beach in Bozburun. The main industry is the building of new gulets and also their maintenance. It is interesting watching the ship builders on the waterfront assemble the wooden skeletons of embryonic boats in the shadows of the towering cliffs that stand guard over Bozborun. The harbour is very small, and it is very often difficult to get a mooring, but one can always anchor in one of the bays. Water is available at the quay and also mains power. There are several restaurants on shore, of which Osmans is well worth a visit. You can get provisions, including bread and cakes from a small bakery. There are also several chandlers. Although generally not highly rated in the pilot books, it is a place of considerable charm. Judge it by the images recorded here, and remember that there are several charming overnight anchorages in the bay ,just outside Bozborun.